Story by Andrea Miller. Photos by Dave Heath.
I ‘d always been curious why Ucluelet had such a mystical appeal. In my mind, I pictured a rugged fishing town sprinkled with laid-back surf bums. I certainly discovered a touch of that when I visited recently, but what struck me most were the people: down-to-earth, deeply rooted folk who clearly loved where they lived. Ucluelet felt like a blend of long-time locals, newly arrived enthusiasts, and curious visitors of all ages wandering the beaches, combing the shoreline, and discovering treasures along the way.
Day One – Church Beers & Mexican Night
We arrived from Comox around 2 p.m. to a bright, shining sun and friendly, upbeat vibes at the Ucluelet Wildwood Inn. The inn has been newly renovated, with fully stocked, spotless rooms that feel fresh and welcoming.
Our first stop was the Ucluelet Brewing Company located in a renovated church just off the town’s Main Street. What a view! You step into this beautiful timber-framed building, with its sweeping bar that wraps around the restaurant, and are greeted by and a stunning backdrop of the ocean. I’m a sucker for IPAs, and the South Swell West Coast IPA was the perfect fit for a moody sunset.
Dinner was at Papi’s Cantina, a local gem for classic Mexican. Ryan, the owner and bartender extraordinaire, was a highlight all on his own. The tostadas were fresh, crisp, and bursting with spice. I went for a classic margarita, which paired beautifully with my ceviche de camarón — a Mexican favourite. Ryan mixed drinks, told stories of his ancestors, and had everyone at the bar raising their glasses in a cheerful salute.
Knowing we had an early morning paddle with Hello Nature, I happily retired to my cozy, comfortable room at the Wildwood Inn.
Day Two – Hello Nature, Goodbye Edmonton
Our day began with Hello Nature Adventure Tours and we met their team of passionate paddlers down at the dock. Kevin, the owner and host, welcomed us warmly. The staff had everything prepared, from kayaks to water taxi logistics, which made the start seamless.
The marina was misty in the early morning light, but clearer skies were waiting ahead. We boarded the water taxi and headed into a quiet cove where it was calm enough to launch. I chose a double kayak because ocean paddling can feel intimidating, even for someone like me who is confident on a paddleboard and raft. The swells can still be daunting.
My guide was Morgan, a kinesiology student who spends the summers guiding the coast and winters skiing and studying in the Kootenays. She was strong, confident, and knowledgeable. I loved hearing her stories about different sea stars as we paddled around Pinkerton Islands, a protected anchorage in the Broken Group Islands of Pacific Rim National Park. Sea lions lounged and barked in the sun and the shoreline changed colour and texture around every corner.
Hello Nature offers rentals and guided tours across Barkley Sound, the Broken Group, and Clayoquot Sound, and the day reminded me why these waters are so special.
After our paddle, we explored downtown Ucluelet, popping into little shops and taking note of restaurants and events. A highlight was Pina Ukee, a sweet shop that does screen printing on-site. Angie, the owner, is an independent artist behind “Stormy Sea,” a line of coastal-inspired designs.
Dinner was at Eagle’s Nest Pub, perched right on the water. We happened to be there for the Stanley Cup playoffs — Florida vs. Edmonton — and the energy was electric. The bartenders kept the drinks flowing, the crowd was buzzing, and the game made for a lively night. It would have been even more lively had Edmonton not lost but it was just as well because we had to get back to the hotel to prepare for another early paddle with Paddle West.
Day Three – Paddle West & Punk Rock
The morning of our last day was chilly, but the light was golden. The sky blushed from yellow to red as the sun crept over the horizon. We met Sam, a guide with Paddle West and part of the BC Marine Trails team. After gearing up, we launched right from the dock into calm waters.
Sam led us along shorelines that boasted spectacular views, which truly set Ucluelet apart from other places I had paddled. We explored the harbour, a protected space perfect for cruising along the rocky shore and soaking in the beauty of the surrounding islands.
Back at the dock, we grabbed fresh oysters from a local seafood shop Fishfull and carried them to the Wild Pacific Trail, where we found a quiet spot near the rocky beach. Just as we spread out our towels, something magical happened: a whale surfaced in the bay, circling slowly as if giving us a private show.
That evening, the glowing sunset pulled us back onto the water for one final paddle. We glided toward the steep islands of Leche Island, which has a traditional name of Caapiith (pronounced “chap eeth”), which means “middle of the bay” and refers to its location in Ucluelet Inlet. The ocean was calm and the horizon ablaze. There’s something magical about watching the sunset from a kayak. As I floated silently along on the water, I took a moment to reflect on the adventures we had enjoyed in Ucluelet so far and those to come.
After the paddle we were told by some locals that the Army, Navy & Air Force Veterans Club was the place to find the party. Sure enough, we stumbled upon a punk show. Old Friend with Zack & Shaz was an Irish punk cover band that brought the community hall to life. We enjoyed loud music, cheap beer, mingling with both locals and travellers, and a raw energy that made the night unforgettable.
The next morning started slower. We grabbed coffee and banana bread at the Barkley Café — rich, flavorful, and the perfect send-off. Before leaving town, we followed an insider tip to visit The Hidden Gem Bake Shop above a gas station on the outskirts. It sounded odd, but the fresh sandwiches turned out to be delicious, affordable, and the perfect road snack.
What a way to close out three unforgettable days in Ucluelet.
