Day 1
We started the trip in Chemainus, a small coastal town known more for its murals and markets than paddling. But just north of the community is a small body of water called Fuller Lake, where we met Rick Bryan, a lifelong paddler and member of the South Island Whitewater Club. Rick’s mission for the day was to teach me the finer points of river maneuvering using a plastic playboat and a single-bladed canoe paddle. After some warmups and paddle stroke refreshers, he had me flipping the boat and popping upright again using hip snaps and sweep strokes. It was a great intro to whitewater canoe handling, minus the rapids, and it was the perfect reminder that paddling is as much about finesse and form as it is about forward motion.
Fuller Lake
Rick Bryan is a short, athletic man in his seventies with white hair and a playful grin who’s “been paddling since before the dawn of time,” he says. He is a founding member of the South Island Whitewater Club and is also heavily involved in the Recreational Canoeing Association of BC. We were meeting so he could teach us how to roll a playboat, a small plastic river-running craft that he insisted not be called a kayak because we’d use a canoe paddle to propel and steer it.
Red Arrow Brewing Company
After my lesson, we headed into Duncan for a celebratory pint at Red Arrow Brewing. The colourful brick was once the home of the Arrow Custom Motorcycles company and its old showroom is now the brewery’s lounge. Outside you'll find a large patio, a tented stage where live musical acts play, plus Christopher the gargoyle. I recommend the fish tacos paired with their Elderflower Sour, a seasonal kettle sour made from foraged local blossoms.
Merridale Cidery & Distillery
We still had a lot of daylight left and so decided to check out Merridale Cidery and Distillery near Cobble Hill. It was incredible to me that this completely rural zone was so easily accessed from the highway. I highly recommend visiting this working cidery because walking the property past the ponds and under the fruit trees is an anchanting experience and the spiced rum made on site is even more magical.
Temperance Hotel
That evening, we checked into the Temperance Hotel in Ladysmith. Located in a beautifully restored heritage building, the Temperance has become a standout stay in the Cowichan region. Originally built in Nanaimo over a century ago, the structure was dismantled, relocated, and reassembled in its current location where it's served as a miners hall, brothel, doctor's office. and more. Denise Bergquist and Stefan Queitsch purchased it in 2020 and spent four years meticulously revamping the space. The result is a boutique hotel that blends modern comfort with vintage charm.
Day 2
It was finally time for my parents to try sea kayaking. We awoke early and drove a half hour south to Cowichan Bay where we met Gary and Georgia Newsome, owners of Coastal Bliss Adventures. They turned out to be the perfect guides for our journey as they’re in their sixties and have a lot of skill and patience when it comes to teaching old paddlers new tricks.
Coastal Bliss Adventures Ltd.
Cowichan Bay is where ocean and river meet. The calm waters of the bay and its protected estuary are ideal for sea kayaking, especially if you’re interested in close-up wildlife encounters. We spent the morning with Coastal Bliss Adventures exploring the channels and marshlands that make up the Cowichan River Estuary. The bay was calm, with just a ripple of wind and we spotted a dozen harbour seals floating nearby and occasionally popping up near our hulls like curious puppies. Overhead we watched bald eagles and Kingfishers troll for their next meal. We drifted past meadows of eelgrass and learned how crucial these waters are to salmon fry. The estuary wasn't just a paddling destination, it was an ecosystem humming with life.
Duncan Downtown
After the morning paddle, we wandered Duncan’s vibrant Saturday farmers’ market and spied everything from local produce vendors and food trucks to people selling pottery, paintings and patchwork quilts.
Craig Street Brew Pub
Rather than snack at the market, we visited the Craig Street Brew Pub located in a nearby building that boasts a beautiful antique bar from the 1940s and a real wood-burning fireplace. We ordered tuna and salmon dishes along with a flight of the ales brewed on site. The Mt. Prevost porter was a fave because of its almost desert-like cocoa flavour.
Pacific Northwest Raptors Facility
After lunch we experienced something every Cowichan Valley visitor should make time for: the Pacific Northwest Raptors centre. Seeing birds of prey up close gives you a primal thrill: these creatures are echoes of the dinosaur age! Falcons, eagles, owls, and hawks were all on display, but the real highlight was the flight demo. Trainers wandered through the seated crowd as raptors swooped just inches overhead to land gracefully on their outstretched arms.
Bayview Brewing Company
That evening, we returned to Ladysmith and visited the Bayview Brewing Company. Opened in April 2022 by longtime friends Rod Alsop and Jon Ludtke, Bayview pairs an inventive food menu with a creative, ever-changing tap list. Our tasting flight included the refreshing Lady Guava Gose and the standout 7 Belles—a dry-hopped saison named after the local tradition of ringing bells at 7pm in tribute to healthcare workers. The unexpected star of the evening, though, was the dill pickle pizza. Strange, yes. But delicious
Day 3
The next day was to be my parents first introduction to paddleboarding. So we dressed for the cooler, overcast weather and set out.
In The Beantime Cafe
The day began with a delicious breakfast at the popular café called In The Beantime, located a block from the Temperance. If you arrive and there’s a long line-up, don’t be discouraged. The staff are so efficient, diners don’t have to wait long for their meals.
Pristine Paddleboard Adventures
After our egg bennies and cappuccinos, we drove 45 minutes south to Cowichan Lake, the traditional territory of the Ts'uubaa-asatx people, who have been the stewards of these lands since time immemorial. Thirty kilometres long and , edged with forest and hidden beaches, Cowichan Lake is the freshwater jewel of the region. We made our way to Gordon Bay Provincial Park on its eastern shore, a wide, sheltered cove perfect for paddleboarding, and met Josh Tisch, owner of Pristine Paddleboards. Josh’s mobile gear shack on wheels called the “Paddle Pod,” is fully stocked with SUPs and stoke. He gave us a shoreline primer on stance, stroke technique, and balance, then set us loose on the water.The morning was crisp, the water calm, and the boards surprisingly stable. We wove around islets and floated through sun-dappled shallows. It felt like meditation, until a rogue wobble sent my dad tumbling into the lake. Thankfully he was fine and laughed it off while towelling dry on shore.
The Oak Taphouse
We spent the afternoon relaxing and then grabbed food to go from the Oak Taphouse in Duncan. “The Oak,” is a Tudor-style pub built in 1980 that is now owned by Lance and Liz Steward, the same couple who own Craig Street Brew Pub.
Pristine Paddleboard Adventures
As the sun dipped behind the hills, we returned to Gordon Bay. Josh prepped our paddleboards with waterproof LED strips that were 1,000 lumens each and synced to a remote so they could change colours mid-paddle. A waterproof speaker played ambient music as we pushed off under a canopy of stars.Paddling through the dark on a glowing board is an otherworldly experience. The lights lit up the lakebed like stained glass. Sunken logs glowed like sleeping dragons. Water weeds danced in the current, illuminated in surreal pinks and greens. Every stroke created a ripple of colour and sound. It was like floating in a dream.
Temperance Hotel
Later that evening, on the way back to the Temperance Hotel, we reflected on how much we’d discovered. The Cowichan Valley had always been a pit stop for us, a place to gas up and grab a coffee. After spending three days here though, we realized this region might well be the best-kept paddling secret on Vancouver Island.
Cowichan
It’s a wondrous thing to teach your elderly parents something new. Throughout childhood, we’re encouraged, coaxed and taught about every […]
Cowichan (Ocean)
Cowichan Bay is a historic coastal community at the mouth of the Cowichan River. The bay is famous for its […]
Cowichan Lake
Thirty kilometres long and edged with forest and hidden beaches, Cowichan Lake is the freshwater jewel of the region.
Plan for a safe and well informed adventure
At Paddle BC, we’re as excited about your upcoming adventure as you are! Our goal is to help you experience the breathtaking beauty of British Columbia’s waterways, but we want to ensure you return home with only good memories. While we provide the gateway to these wild places, your safety is ultimately a personal commitment. We embrace a “challenge by choice” philosophy, which means you are the best judge of your own abilities. By staying within your skill set and taking personal responsibility for your journey, you ensure that your trip is as safe as it is spectacular. To help you prepare for a successful multiday adventure, we’ve outlined these six essential safety pillars:
Carry Mandatory Gear
Ensure you have all Transport Canada required equipment: a lifejacket (PFD), throw bag, whistle, bailing device, and a reflective signaling device. This gear is your first line of defense.
Plan for Conditions
River levels and weather in BC change rapidly. Check forecasts regularly, be aware that many hazards may be hidden, and always have a solid contingency plan in place.
Respect Nature
Expect to encounter wildlife in the BC wilderness. Respect their space, protect the ecosystem, and strictly follow “Leave No Trace” principles to keep our waters pristine.
Dress for Immersion
Always “dress for the swim, not the paddle.” Use appropriate thermal layers to protect against cold water shock, which can occur instantly and lead to physical incapacitation.
Know Your Limits
Practice “challenge by choice” and never attempt water that exceeds your ability. Don’t let a multiday itinerary pressure you into paddling beyond your personal skill set.
Assess and Manage Risk
River paddling carries inherent risks like injury or entrapment. Remain vigilant, scout ahead when necessary, and remember that help may be far away during your adventure.