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Paddle Between Peaks: An East Kootenay Road Trip Itinerary

The cedar strip canoe my father and I built together three decades ago is, if I may say, a work of art. It’s graced countless stunning waterways over the years, but few compare to the Columbia River Wetlands in British Columbia’s East Kootenay region. There, its golden-hued hull seemed to glow against the vivid green shoreline and the towering backdrop of grey-and-white alpine peaks. It was, and still is, one of the most surprisingly scenic and enjoyable weekend getaways I’ve ever experienced.

The author’s wife and their cedar strip on the Columbia River Wetlands flanked by the Rocky Mountains and the Purcells.

Tucked into the southeastern corner of BC, the East Kootenay is a region of wetlands, lakes, rivers, and rugged mountains that rival those found in Canada’s most famous national parks — all without the crowds. Unlike Banff or Jasper, where peak season offers packed parking lots and long lineups, the East Kootenay provides space to breathe, paddle, and explore at your own pace. A scenic, three-hour drive from Calgary, this region blends wilderness beauty with small-town hospitality and lots of aquatic adventures.

Whether you’re chasing whitewater thrills or floating past herons on a slow-moving river, the East Kootenay is your go-to for a paddle-powered road trip. Below is a suggested itinerary for a long weekend or week-long excursion.

Raft the Kicking Horse River — Golden, BC

Four groups on rafts navigating on the Kicking Horse River

The Kicking Horse near Golden is on the bucket list of experienced paddlers and beginners alike because it offers some of the most exhilarating rafting experiences in the country. Fed by glacial meltwater from the Wapta Icefield, the river’s stunning turquoise hue comes from suspended “rock flour,” tiny particles of ground rock that reflect sunlight and give the river its surreal colour.

Several reputable outfitters in Golden offer guided trips ranging from family-friendly floats to adrenaline-pumping descents. The Upper Canyon is great for first-timers and families, with scenic views and Class II–III rapids, while the Lower Canyon cranks up the intensity with steep, narrow sections and roaring Class IV waves. Thrills or just enjoying the beauty of alpine water coursing through dramatic canyon walls? Whatever your preference, the Kicking Horse delivers an unforgettable day on the water.

Canoe the Columbia Wetlands — Invermere to Radium Hot Springs

For a gentler, more meditative outing, the Columbia Wetlands offer a serene and scenic paddling experience. This is of the longest continuous wetlands in North America, the Columbia is crucial habitat for over 260 bird species, including osprey, herons, and bald eagles. It’s also home to beavers, otters, and moose, making it a wildlife lover’s paradise.

A popular stretch for paddlers on this 180-kilometre-long waterway is the 17 kilometres from Invermere to Radium Hot Springs, which takes about three to five hours. The Columbia River flows slowly here, making it ideal for families, beginners, or anyone looking to enjoy an easy float. Pack a picnic, drift with the current, and soak in the scenery. The take-out near Radium Hot Springs adds a bonus reward: a soak in the steamy, mineral-rich pools of the resort. From paddle to plunge, it’s relaxation at its finest.

SUPsquatch Paddleboard the Elk River — Fernie, BC

If you’re looking for paddling with a twist (and some guaranteed laughs), hop aboard a SUPsquatch on the Elk River in Fernie. These oversized inflatable stand-up paddleboards are built for groups, and navigating the gentle moving waters of the Elk together is equal parts team bonding and splashy fun.

The Elk River winds through the stunning Elk Valley, flanked by towering peaks and lush forests. It’s a great introduction to river paddling for kids or newcomers and a hilarious change of pace for seasoned adventurers when the SUPsquatch is introduced. Once you’ve dried off, Fernie itself offers fantastic après options. This historic mountain town is packed with personality, from lively patios and artisan cafés to craft breweries and restaurants serving up everything from ramen to Mexican.

Kayak Monroe and Mineral Lakes — Cranbrook, BC

The Cranbrook area may be known as the sunniest city in BC, but its paddling scene is just as bright. Located a 15-minutes drive from downtown, and a five-minute drive from each other, Monroe Lake and Mineral Lake are two pristine, easily accessed gems that are perfect for laid-back paddles. Bring your canoe, kayak, or SUP and enjoy crystal-clear waters surrounded by quiet forests and open skies.

Both lakes are uncrowded and ideal for beginners or those just looking to unwind. Paddle past lily pads, listen for loons, and maybe even cast a line if you’re into fishing. With picnic areas nearby and no rushing currents to contend with, these lakes are the definition of peaceful. Afterwards, explore Cranbrook’s heritage downtown or check out the local trail systems for a post-paddle hike or bike ride.

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