Your paddle dips silently into the glassy surface of Kootenay Lake. You gaze down the massive, glacial-fed body of water that’s wedged between the Selkirk and Purcell Mountains and contemplate the more than 100 kilometres of shoreline to explore, This is truly a paddler’s paradise, one that rewards with sandy beaches, hidden coves, ancient pictographs on cliff sides, and wilderness campsites accessible only from the water.
At 104 kilometres long, and up to five kilometres wide in places, Kootenay Lake offers a massive amount of surface area for paddlers. Formed by ancient glaciers, it reaches depths of up to 550 feet (167 metres), giving it an ocean-like feel at times. Given its size, it’s important for paddlers to realize that winds can blow up at any time and it’s important to monitor the weather and stay close to the shore as much as possible. That said, its sheer scale and remoteness make it unlike anywhere else. As Daphne Hunter of Kaslo Kayaking & Adventure Centre explains: “Until you actually come here and paddle out on this lake, you don’t understand how remote, how pristine, and how in touch with real wilderness you are.”
The West Arm of Kootenay Lake
The most well-known section of the lake is its appropriately named West Arm that reaches from Balfour past the city of Nelson. For an easy day paddle, Nelson is a perfect launch point. Paddlers can rent various craft from Nelson Paddleboard & Kayak Rentals From its offices at the Prestige Lakeside Resort you can easily launch from the public dock. or Rotary Lakeside Park, you can slip your kayak, canoe, or SUP straight into the water and paddle north travelling under the town’s iconic BOB (Big Orange Bridge).
Within minutes, the bustle of the city feels far away. Hugging the shoreline, you’ll drift past charming waterfront homes before discovering a series of sandy, secluded beaches. Later, you can return to Lakeside Park, pull up at the beach or dock, and enjoy at meal at the Rose Garden Café.
For those with a bit more time, keep paddling west for about an hour and you’ll arrive at Troupe Beach. This broad sandbar stretches into the middle of the West Arm and has become one of the most popular boat-access beaches in the region. On weekends, you’ll often find it buzzing with sun seekers, but during the week, the sandbar can feel like your own private island.
Launching From Kaslo
Other ancient pictographs can be found on cliffs located across from Kaslo’s Lighthouse Beach, paddlers can visit ancient pictographs painted on sheer rock walls. They were painted here by First Nations between 500 and 2,500 years ago.
“Out here, you can paddle along, and all you see are rocky, historic cliffs and trees, and all you hear is the swoosh of your paddle and the call of a loon,” says Daphne Hunter. “Then you come across this beautiful ancient rock wall with amazing pictographs carved into it. It’s magical.” Gliding beneath towering cliffs while sunlight bounces off the stone, it’s easy to feel a deep connection to the land and its stories.
For those new to big-lake paddling, outfitters such as Kaslo Kayaking & Adventure Centre provide rentals, tours, and guidance. Their fleet of sit-in sea kayaks comes equipped with rudder systems for stability and control. “We’re a big safety-first company,” says Hunter. In a sea kayak, “you’re much more in tune with the lake because you sit deeper, and we feel much more confident sending people out in sea kayaks.”
Whether you’re looking for a guided paddle to the pictographs, a SUP rental, or advice on planning a multi-day trip, Kaslo Kayaking is the go-to hub for adventure at the northern end of the lake.
Wilderness Campsites & Waterfall Trails
Kootenay Lake’s shoreline is dotted with hidden spots best reached by paddle. One favourite is Powder Creek, a water-access-only beach with a handful of rustic campsites. From there, a trail leads to a tiered waterfall, each level offering sweeping views of the lake. “That’s another lovely spot we like to get to,” says Hunter. The hike up to the falls is “fairly accessible, not a crazy trail up. Most people can do it with a good pair of shoes.”
Farther north, the Johnson’s Landing and Birchdale areas provide access to Fry Creek where, in 2018, a massive slush flow reshaped the terrain, leaving behind a large sandy beach. From there, you can hike up into the canyon alongside the turquoise water streaming down from glaciers above.
South Garland Bay
For those who prefer to mix the wild with the convenient, South Garland Bay offers road access to a lakeside campground that still feels remote. “Every camp spot is right on the lake, which is just incredible,” Hunter notes. “And yet you’re still a good 40 minutes from anywhere.” It’s a rare balance of accessibility and solitude.
Wildlife Encounters
From bald eagles nesting on cliffside trees to black bears roaming the shoreline, paddlers are immersed in living wilderness here. In spring, guided tours often pass active osprey nests, where you might watch a mother swoop in to feed her chicks.
Safety, however, is essential. As Hunter emphasizes: “Because it’s still wilderness here, if you want to do a multi-day [paddle], you really want to make sure you have an itinerary. You don’t always have cell service. And yes, we have bears. Once you paddle out, you’re on your own.”
There’s no single way to experience paddling in the Nelson and Kootenay Lake region. Some want the ease of a quick urban escape, or seek the quiet of a sunrise SUP. Others seek the thrill of kayaking beneath towering cliffs, or the adventure of camping at a water-access-only camp site under a star-filled sky.
But all will leave with the same impression: Kootenay Lake is a place where wilderness and water meet in ways that refresh the spirit.
